Nagasaki

I have a huge love of port cities – they have such a diverse history of cultures mixing, fusion dishes and a love of curiosity and openness.

This trip took place in the Fall of 2024.

We were so excited to sit down and have our first meal in Japan at our favorite udon chain.

These are adorable donuts made with udon noodle batter/dough. So cute and delicious! You can add different powders to the bag and shake it. They have seasonal options, too, like strawberry powder in the Spring.

Our first night, we stayed at a hotel in Fukuoka. The next morning, we headed out to Nagasaki!

On our way to the train station, we found one of the best bakeries I’ve seen to date. Such good treats:

It was hard to pick a favorite because they were all so freshly baked and delicious!!

I found a cute bear at the train station!

This poster called my name. Just look at that egg.

On the train platform, there was an udon stand. I couldn’t resist trying it. Businessmen and families traveling were eating as well – no seats, so you have to eat standing with a large windowsill as a table.

Our hotel was comfortable and had a nice view of a park and the mountains behind the city.

As we settled in that evening, we made note of any nearby points of interest. The next morning, we set out to explore:

There were many interesting streets to wander down.

Scattered signs throughout the city provided more information on the city’s history.

Breakfast one morning found us at a local cafe – I tried these items:

After breakfast, we walked along the water ways and explored the city on foot.

We noticed a lot of older buildings that were constructed in a Western style. I read that this was because of the Dutch influence perhaps, as well as other cultures that made their way through Nagasaki. Trams cut through streets and there were a lot of pedestrians, but nothing too overwhelming like the larger cities tourists typically go to.

We strolled through the area’s version of “Chinatown”:

This is where I found a Studio Ghibli shop, that was decorated just as magical on the inside!

Our wandering feet took us uphill along more residential streets:

We visited a shrine, and passed by a more modern art museum along the water.

There were a few stray cats that we said hi too, as well.

On the itinerary was a visit to Dejima, a man-made island with older/historical buildings and museums. There is an entry fee, but it was worth it. Inside, you can find souvenir shops as well as photo opportunities (you can rent period clothing).

I was a fan of the bear at the souvenir shop, which was their mascot, and wearing a Dutch outfit:

We had Indian food for dinner and visited the supermarket/food court in the basement of a local mall.

If you have never done that (seen the basement level of a local shopping mall), you really should add it to your trip agenda. Affordable snacks, hot food and souvenirs await you. These mochi were absolutely amazing.

I bought many boxes of the famous castella cake:

It’s very unassuming, and I was ready to not be impressed based on the fact that it just looks like plain yellow cake. Boy, was I wrong. It is this perfect, bouncy, soft cake with a lovely not-too-strong flavor and deliciously perfect crust at the bottom that had intact cane sugar crystals embedded in it. It was definitely worth the money, turns out.

There were many canals/waterways running through the city.

Apparently there are kayaking opportunities.

We visited the shopping mall basement food court again, and this time we tried some of the restaurants. The tantanmen I ate knocked my socks off. My hubby was a fan of the udon and tempura.

We walked along the harbor this time and got to see the ships/boats anchored there.

The local museum was very moving and at times, dark, but it was worthwhile. The cafe they had inside the museum was nice and I tried a drink made of milk and coffee jelly. It was good!

Nagasaki really is a beautiful place to wander around. Fall was unfolding all around us at the time.

We ended up bussing it to an onsen that we thoroughly enjoyed, and afterwards we treated ourselves to a traditional sushi place. It was delicious and we still think about it to this day.

We slept so well after that!

In the Peace Park outside of the museum we had visited, hubby had sparked up conversation with one of the volunteer museum guides. Apparently he used to work as a tour guide professionally, and he offered to take us around as our guide for just the fee of the rental car, which was approx. 10,000 yen.

So, the next morning, we bussed it over to meet him at the rental car company.

After driving a bit, he pulled over at a lookout with bathrooms, a shop and a potato stand. I had noticed that as we were driving, we passed several fields and farms along the way. Our guide explained that the area is famous for growing potatoes. The stand sold potatoes on a stick, and they were really good and hit the spot for me.

Our guide took us inside the souvenir/convenience store and there was a coffee/espresso bar inside. We sat and enjoyed some and poked around the store. They also sold castella cake.

As we kept driving, we passed more farms and cliffs and towns along the ocean.

He drove us to Unzen first, to see the “hell” there and in the hopes of reaching the famous onsen located in Unzen.

The trail around the Unzen “hell” area was so beautiful and very interesting.

Steam was bursting out of so many sites along the path. Sulfuric crystals gathered on rocks, and hot water bubbling up everywhere and running down the incline, leaving steam curling into the chilly autumn air.

Unfortunately, the Unzen onsen was found to be closed at the time, so we had bad luck with that. Instead, we went up to a higher lookout for a breathtaking view of the area:

Since we had no luck at the Unzen onsen, hubby suggested a spot he had been wanting to go to: a town called “Obama”.

There was a particular, cozy, very local onsen that he wanted to try. The kind that has an auntie in a recliner at the entrance watching TV and taking your entry fee. They had wooden baths, very traditional/local style, and you could drink small amounts of the water. It was so relaxing. Locals were inside enjoying it as well.

After the much-needed soak post-hike, we drove to a restaurant that offered us local dishes like soups with mochi inside. The food was of course amazing, blew our minds, and the elderly chef came out to see us off as we left. I purchased some of the BEST sauces and spices on my way out of the restaurant, they offered handmade versions that they created with Yuzu fruit. It was one of the best things I bought on the trip. Always buy local things like that when you see them, they are one of a kind and cannot be found in grocery stores.

He then drove us to see the Unzen volcano, which was still active. When it explodes, it creates pyroclastic flow which is also what damaged Pompeii. The Unzen eruptions have indeed caused incredible damage in the past. The building seen here was a museum – they showed us a short video of the eruption, and the damage it caused. It ruined a school building and buried houses deep in the flow.

It was so strange to be walking around the roofs of the houses that had been buried. It was definitely a surreal experience.

We passed by the Shimabara castle, and he took us to some old Samurai houses that had been preserved as a museum. I was particularly fascinated by the tofu press, their kitchen, and the living quarters.

What’s amazing is there was nobody there to monitor, you could just wander in and poke around. We were able to walk right into the preserved home and walk around the rooms, on the tatami, imagining what it would have been like to live in a home like this.

Our last stop on this long trip was back in Nagasaki at the observation point. It was wonderful to see Nagaski at night from this vantage point.

The next day, we were so obsessed with the onsen from Obama town that we decided to go back there again, this time on our own by bus.

One of the first things we found was this hostel that had onsen, and allowed you to steam/cook your own food with the onsen steam!! It was so cool. The onsen was also top-notch. You don’t have to stay there overnight to enjoy it – they offered day passes as well. After inquiring about the process, we decided to do that. In order to cook though, we had to find a local grocery store.

While walking to it, we pass the bay/shoreline, which had crab restaurants and other onsen available as well.

We found lots of delicious local produce, fresh AND freeze-dried tofu (we stocked up on that, and it lasted us at home after we came back too), locally-made soy sauce that was phenomenal – we love going to local grocery stores, oh my gosh. I can’t recommend it enough.

With our haul, we walked back and paid our fee. The onsen was SO good, it was a good-sized pool that could fit several people, the water was HOT, lots of minerals crusted around the side (so you know it’s legit).

The dining/kitchen area – they had a cute little counter where you could pay a small fee and they let you make your own coffee from freshly-ground beans. The kitchen had everything you needed in terms of equipment to cook and dishes to eat with. The staff are there to help you figure out how to steam your food with the system they have on their lanai (balcony/patio) and it was so relaxing to enjoy our coffee at the tables outside while our food steamed. It was a lovely autumn day. We took our food inside and prepared sauces to dip. The low tables, cushions and tatami floor was very comfortable and my hubby brewed up some green tea to enjoy. I still remember what a great experience it was. I would definitely have enjoyed staying there as a guest.

Honestly, I can’t say enough good things about Obama. It was a town along the sea with SO MANY onsen facilities, I could have stayed there for a couple days at least just enjoying all the onsen and food. It is a small town, so if you mainly want to go shopping and enjoy nightlife, this wouldn’t be a good option for you. If you are looking for a peaceful time with hot mineral soaks and friendly townsfolk, this is great. They also had a spot by the ocean that displayed their onsen water that fed all the facilities (and yet another onsen available for use), AND apparently what was the longest footbath in Japan.

This wrapped up our time in the Nagasaki area. What a wonderful trip, I thoroughly enjoyed every moment. I hope you come see it too, someday.